Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Baking Bouchon - Recipe 6: Pastry Cream

I need Pastry Cream for two upcoming recipes; Sticky Buns and Cream Puffs so I made a batch big enough for both recipes.  Since it keeps in the refrigerator for up to 4 days, I figured it was safe enough.  I just hope this stuff makes it through the next two recipes because I keep sticking a spoon in it and eating it (ok, fine, I don't always use a spoon).


Most of the ingredients are pretty basic, egg yolks, milk, sugar, vanilla beans and butter.  The new one for me was Custard Powder and, of course, I had to go to two stores to find it... sigh.  You can substitute flour for the custard powder but Thomas says the custard powder results in a richer pastry cream with a brighter color.  I don't know about the richness, but this stuff was bright freakin' yellow so he's got at least one thing right.
First you beat up the egg yolks and vanilla beans, then slowly add the sugar.  Then you beat the crap out of the yolk/sugar mixture until it thickens up and runs off the whisk in ribbons.  Then, slowly add in the milk while the mixer is running.

Then comes the scary part.  You cook it on the stove, whisking like your life depends on it until it thickens and turns a 1980's neon yellow.

I, unfortunately, could not take a photo of myself pushing the cooked cream through a strainer to make sure it's smooth and has no lumps in it.  I was too busy sweating because it was freakin' hard.  The recipe has you put the bowl you're straining it into over an ice bath so the cream can cool down before you whisk in the butter.  I think the mesh on my strainer was too fine because it took me so long to push the stuff through that the ice bath was superfluous.
Once you whisk in the butter, you put plastic wrap against the surface of the cream to keep a skin from forming and refrigerate overnight or for up to 4 days.

This stuff tastes pretty darn good, nice and rich and creamy.  I am, however, a little confused about how it will get used in the cream puffs.  When reading the description of this cream, Thomas indicates he often combines it with whipped cream to give it a lighter texture but I peeked at the cream puff recipe and that doesn't happen, it goes in straight.  I guess we'll see in a couple of days.

Julie

3 comments:

  1. How did the cream puffs come out? I ask because I'm making this same pastry cream recipe to put into eclairs.
    I tried last weekend and it turned into rubber in my saucepan long before the prescribed five minutes was up, although I kept cooking it, thinking I must not understand the process. I had to throw it away that day.
    I tried again today and it almost did the same - about 2 minutes into cooking, all of a sudden it started turning into solid in the pan before my eyes. I rushed to avoid what happened last weekend, and pushed it through the strainer into the ice bath like crazy. I think it still came out too thick, but usable. It's refrigerating now, and I have no idea whether I'll be able to pipe it into the eclairs or not.
    I'm wondering if I'm missing something, like you are supposed to take the pan off the heat once it begins to simmer, and THEN continue whisking for five minutes.
    Anyway, it would be great to hear how it came out!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Rick! I'll be honest that I've made the pastry cream in this book 4 or 5 times and always struggle with it being too thick. This is particularly true if using custard powder instead of flour. The last couple of times I've barely cooked it and it seems to turn out better - but still thicker that I'd prefer. When making it with flour, I've found I can cook it longer without it getting so rubbery. Good luck with the eclairs!!

      Delete
    2. Great to know, thanks Julie!

      Delete